Those who follow the Scenic blog know that, after many months of deliberation, I finally got a new motorcycle. Of course, with such a hard core adventure motorcycle, I couldn’t possibly continue using my mellow touring helmet, the Schuberth C3 Pro. So I got the Arai XD-4 (or Tour X-4 as it’s called in Europe). But was that the correct decission?

Apples to Oranges

Some of you might argue that comparing the C3 Pro with the Arai XD-4 is like comparing apples to oranges, but I beg to differ. A lot of adventure riders come from a touring background. And a lot of those old touring riders, like me, will have a premium touring helmet, wondering if it’s worth to upgrade to an Adventure helmet. Well… this article is for those guys and gals.

Why get a new helmet at all?

That’s a good question. Why would you get a new helmet at all? Well… there are many reasons. Here are some of them…

Image

Even though adventure riding, for many, entails touring with the occasional dirt road, there is no denying that the image of adventure riding is quite different from the touring image. In fact, a whole sub-industry was built around this ‘adventure’ image, with specific adventure motorcycles and all the specific gear to go with it, including helmets. So, image, is one reason that people might want to get a new helmet.

Too old

That’s an easy one. If your old helmet is, well, old, you’ll have to get a new one. No questions there. Helmet manufacturers recommend to renew your helmet after (more or less) 5 years because the internal materials of the helmet degrade, making the helmet lose its protective properties. Many articles have been written on that so I won’t get into that here.

Better quality

New riders often get sub-premium (cheaper) gear because they are trying out this new ‘hobby’ and don’t want to break the bank just yet. Once they are hooked, often times they start upgrading their gear. Mostly the gear that is uncomfortable or of less quality. Helmets are certainly in that category.

Looking for a specific property

Helmets are usually compared against key properties: Weight, Noise, Ventilation, Comfort and Features (like a sun visor, modular mechanism, speaker pockets, com system preparation, chin strap closure, etc.). One of the reasons why people get a new helmet is because they are looking for a specific property that their current helmet doesn’t offer. E.g. my very first helmet was a very cheap B-brand (I don’t remember the name to be honest) and it had horrible noise insulation. That’s why I switched to Schuberth very quickly. Have a look at my article Windscreens and other causes + solutions for noise and buffeting in motorcycle helmets if you’d like to know more about this topic.

Why did I get a new helmet?

For me, it was a combination of image, ventilation and field of vision. I will admit I am a bit vain in that. I wanted my helmet to reflect the adventure style my new motorcycle had. My C3 Pro simply didn’t fit the image. Living in Mexico I also wanted a bit more ventilation. The C3 Pro is a great helmet with great features, but ventilation is not one of those. Also, because of its modular character the visor is not very big. Adventure helmets mostly have a bigger visor (to be able to wear goggles), giving you a bigger field of vision.

Why did I get the Arai?

I decided for the Arai XD-4 / Tour X-4 as that’s one of the best adventure motorcycle helmets according to the many reviews I read and viewed. It’s often compared to the Klim Krios and the Shoei Hornet. Just google those names and you’ll get many hits for reviews and comparison articles and videos.

The comparison

Before we start, a bit of background: Before I got the C3 Pro I owned its predecessor, the C3. I have ridden almost 10 years with these helmets. So, needless to say, I really like them. I got the Arai late last year, and now have ridden about 3 months / 3000km with it on all kinds of terrain. Mostly in warmer weather as we don’t get much cold weather here in Mexico.

With that out of the way… here we go:

• Weight
  Both are not the lightest in class, but to be honest, weight has never bothered me and was not really a purchase argument for me.
• Putting it on
  Because the C3 is a modular helmet it’s easier to get it over your head. That’s just the difference between a modular and full face helmet. I will say it’s pretty difficult to get the Arai over my head without dislodging the in ear headphones I use (which serve as headphones and earplugs). It’s gotten easier over time though.
• Chin strap (and modular vs full face)
  The chin strap on the C3 is of the ‘ratchet’ type. I find this easier and faster than Arai’s D-rings… especially untying takes longer with the D-rings. This becomes more annoying because the Arai is a full face helmet. There are situations, for example in a gas station, at a public ATM or a quick dash into a corner store, where I would leave my C3 on with the chin bar flipped up (I know this looks dumb, but I don’t care :), but where I now feel obliged to take off the Arai completely to show my face. What I’m trying to say is that it’s not only the untying taking longer, I also have to do it more often.
• Comfort
  Comfort is a lot better on the Arai. Even now, while the Arai is still pretty new, it’s already more comfortable than my broken in C3 Pro. This can be highly personal though, so if possible do some fitting before buying.
• Ventilation
  Airflow is a lot better on the Arai. Living in Mexico that’s very nice. Wearing the two helmets back to back really makes clear just how much of a difference there is. The C3 feels stuffy and cramped, while the Arai is cool.
• Wind noise
  Airflow and wind noise are linked. Typically, the more airflow, the more wind noise. The Arai is definitely more noisy than the Schuberth, but to be honest, not by a lot. At least not on my new bike with the aftermarket windscreen and earplugs (I always ware earplugs on longer rides with highway stretches). Your results may vary though.
• Sun visor / Peak
  I really like the peak on the Arai. I was not expecting to like it that much, but it’s actually really useful in Mexico. The sun is quite high in the sky here, so I didn’t use the C3’s built in sun visor a lot. Only at the beginning or end of the day, when the sun is low, I would use it, but then the sun visor would not really be enough. The peak on the Arai however is very effective for both the sun high above and for the low sun around sunrise and sunset. By simply tilting my head a bit I can very easily put the peak between the sun and my eyes, which helps a lot better than the C3’s built in sun visor. As for the peak ‘catching’ wind on shoulder checks… you do feel it a little bit, but I’ve not found that to be a problem… even though I tried this at highway speeds and beyond. Your results may vary though. One of the modification on my new bike was a bigger windscreen, which helps against that as well.
• Glasses friendly
  I’m lucky enough to not need prescription glasses for driving/riding (yet). However, I recently bought a package of 3 riding glasses on Amazon for under 10 USD, just to try this out… and I really loved it. In the C3 I never tried sunglasses (because it has the sun visor), but in the Arai, when I tried it, it not only helped in sun protection, but it also enabled me to ride with the visor open at lower speeds, which helps tremendously in keeping cool in the Mexican climate.

Would I buy the ARAI again?

I have the C3 Pro and the Arai ready for the taking for every ride. I find myself taking the Arai almost every time. I’ve gotten used to the chin strap closure, I like the extra ventilation and the adventure image. The only thing I do miss in the ability to flip the chin up at a gas station or when dashing into a corner store.

So, the answer is yes! I would buy the Arai again. HOWEVER, if, by the time I need another helmet (not for many years), there is a modular alternative that still offers the adventure image, great ventilation and the big visor with possibility to wear goggles, I might give that one a try. A cherry on top would be if it had the ratchet closure in stead of the D-rings.

SIDE NOTE: In the Scenic Forum you can find the "Big Phone Mounting Topic" where everyone can share their experience on mounting solutions.

In my recent review of the Quad Lock Moto Mount Kit + the Quad Lock Wireless Charging Head I mentioned that my iPhone camera got damaged through the motorcycle vibrations. Meanwhile Quad Lock developed a vibration dampener, to address just that.

The quad lock vibration dampener costs 20 USD (disclaimer: I will receive a small commissions when you use this link).

This review will cover the unboxing, the installation and a road test of the Quad Lock Vibration Dampener. If you prefer to watch video, here it is. Please note that this article contains a bit more information compared to the video, especially about the road test.

Unboxing

The Vibration Dampener comes in a small box which caries 3 things: the dampener itself, a small alan key and the installation instructions. Easy enough.

Installation

Installation is very easy. The Quad Lock Vibration Dampener has an integrated screw on the bottom and some thread at the top. Basically, you insert the dampener between the mount and the current Quad Lock Adapter (or, in my case, the motorcycle wireless charging head). So, you’ll have to unscrew the adapter using the included alan hex key, then screw the vibration dampener to where the adapter first was and then screw the adapter on top of the dampener. It’s as easy as that.

If you’re using the extension arm and the wireless charging head like me, you’ll have to make sure that the three ‘tentacles’ of the dampener are positioned in such a way between the extension arm and the charging head, that movement of the dampener is not obstructed.

Road Test

For the road test, I mounted my phone the same way I always mount it. In portrait mode on my Yamaha FJ-09, which is exactly the same position that rendered my iPhone XR camera useless before. Then I went for a 2 hour ride, trying all kinds of speeds and road surfaces. The only thing different between this ride and the rides where my camera was damaged were two things: (1) The vibration dampener and (2) I was using my new iPhone 12 Pro in stead of my iPhone XR with already damaged camera. (I did get Apple Care on my iPhone 12 Pro, especially for this vibration dampener review).

This is where the above video does not give the complete story. At high speeds my Go Pro knockoff vibrated so hard in the wind that I couldn’t use that video. But…

The Quad Lock Vibration Dampener handled superb! Most importantly, my iPhone camera was still working after this ride. Goal achieved!!! I must admit, the dampener felt really flexible when wobbling it with my hand… flexible enough that I suspected the phone screen would be unreadable at higher speed. Fortunately I was wrong. The screen was readable at all times. In fact the phone seemed more stable than the bike around it.

Conclusion

I’m very impressed with the Quad Lock Vibration Dampener and, even now, after only this small test ride, I would recommend it to anyone using Quad Lock on their motorcycle.

UPDATE: I’ve now ridden 5000km (off-road & onroad)with the vibration dampener. It’s still going strong and the camera on my iPhone 12 Pro is still working as it should.

SIDE NOTE: In the Scenic Forum you can find the "Big Phone Mounting Topic" where everyone can share their experience on mounting solutions.

SIDE NOTE: In the Scenic Forum you can find the "Big Phone Mounting Topic" where everyone can share their experience on mounting solutions. 

I’ve been using Quad Lock on my motorcycle and in my car for a few years now. Both my wife and myself have the Quad Lock cases, so that makes it quite handy. I can mount my phone in the car and on my motorcycle and my wife can mount her phone in the car too.

The Quad Lock’s unique one handed ‘twist, lock and go’ system is quick and easy to use. No need for fiddling with two hands. Just a quick one handed twist and you’re good to go. Super handy. Especially on a motorcycle where, often times, you’re holding something, like your helmet or gloves.

I have to admit though, it does take some practice to find the right angle to ‘twist-lock’ the phone into position. The first couple of times I found myself needing about 3 or 4 tries to get it right. After a while you get the hang of it though. Occasionally I still find myself ‘searching’ for the correct position, but all in all it’s still much easier compared to freeing up your other hand like you have to do with other mounts.

On my motorcycle, I’ve been using the Quad Lock Moto Mount Kit. The Moto Mount Kit includes a handlebar-, mirror-, RAM ball- or Fork stem mount (you can choose), the Quad Lock Universal Adapter (the little disk) and a case for your phone. Prices start at 70 USD.The Quad Lock Moto Mount distinguishes itself from regular (car and desk) Quad Locks by its dual-stage lock (the blue lever), which secures your phone in place even with heavy vibrations. No need for additional straps or bands and such. After a couple of years I can confirm that this works great. My phone never once fell off or came loose, even after dropping the bike a few times.

Damage to Phone Image Stabilisation Modules

With my old iPhone 6 I never had any problems with the Quad Lock. I used it for over a year on my bike, on all kinds of surfaces, from pavement to some pretty gnarly offroad sections. It was simply problem free and I was very happy with it.

I wish I could say the same for my iPhone XR, but unfortunately I can’t. I switched to the XR about 2 years ago, and immediately ordered the Quad Lock case for it. All went well in the beginning. As before with my iPhone 6, I wasn’t expecting otherwise. But after my first longer ride (5 hours of highway) I found that I couldn’t take a decent picture with my phone anymore. My phone’s camera was constantly trying to focus, jittering between being in- and out of focus. My phone was still in warranty, so I had it fixed for free and didn’t give it much thought. But then, a few rides later, I had the exact same problem again.

So now I knew it was caused by the vibrations on the motorcycle. Around that same time I changed motorcycle, so I assumed it was due to my new motorcycle (Yamaha FJ-09) having a more firm suspension than my old one. However after asking around, browsing fora and Facebook groups, I found that a lot of people had the same problem, with all sorts of bikes. Most of them using Quad Lock, but some with other mounts and other phones too. Turns out that modern phones with modern image stabilisation modules are much more sensitive to vibration than older phones.

What I also found is that in general, Quad Lock customers were not happy with Quad Lock support around this issue. It boils down to customers feeling that Quad Lock was not acknowledging this as a structural problem, but rather a sporadic incident only affecting few customers. Meanwhile however, Quad Lock has acknowledged this problem and has even developed a vibration dampener to reduce risk of damage to the image stabilisation module due to motorcycle vibrations. It’s currently in production and will be available soon according to the Quad Lock site. I for sure will be ordering one as soon as it’s out, as I really like the ease of use of the Quad Lock and wouldn’t want to give it up.

UPDATE: The vibration dampener has been released. Read my review here.

Quad Lock Motorcycle Wireless Charging Head

One thing always inconvenienced me a little bit with the Quad Lock: Even though it only required one hand to mount my phone, I still needed to connect the charge cable manually, which is an additional action and best done with two hands. Now, I know this is a ‘first world’ problem, but none the less, a little nuisance. Enter the Quad Lock Motorcycle Wireless Charging Head.

Quad Lock sells two Wireless Charging Heads (or sold I should say, keep reading to find out why). One for use on the motorcycle and a ‘regular’ one for use in the car and in the office/home. Quad Lock sent me the Motorcycle one to try it out.

Installation is straightforward and very easy. I made a video of the unboxing and installation, so you can see for yourself.

As you can see, installation was a breeze. So far so good. One of my main concerns was that the charging head wouldn’t provide enough power to charge the phone while running a navigation app. Like all GPS Navigation apps, Scenic too, uses a lot of battery. Over the years I have had some Scenic users reporting that their phone’s battery level would decrease even when connected to power (through cable). In all cases this was due to low capacity (5 Watt / 1 Amp) chargers. So, even though the specs of the Wireless Charging Head stated that it could handle 10 Watt, I also read about wireless chargers not being as efficient. Hence the background of my concern. Only one way to find out I guess.

So, I went for a test ride. Right before I turned the bike on (powering the charging head) I looked at the battery level of my iPhone XR. It was 64%. Then I turned on the bike and went for a 47 minute ride, with Scenic running in the foreground, navigating a route, all the time. After that ride the battery level had gone up from 64% to 76%. Awesome.

Removed from production

And that’s where my review would have normally ended. The Quad Lock Motorcycle Wireless Charging Head is a great product: easy to install, does as advertised, has enough power and turns the regular Quad Lock into a true one handed mounting system.

HOWEVER, as I was writing this review, I found out that Quad Lock has removed the Motorcycle Wireless Charging Head from production (not the regular charging head). Apparently there were some problems with waterproofness of the cable (which I can imagine as it’s just a regular USB-C connection at the back of the head) and “performance of the power box”. When I asked for more information around this, Quad Lock told me it only affects a small percentage of users. Since they removed the product from production I have to assume it’s still a significant number though. I do know it only affects people using the powerbox (to connect directly to the battery) and not the ones connecting to a USB port or cigaret lighter port from their motorcycle. Here’s the official Quad Lock page about the motorcycle wireless charging head being removed from production. In their response to me, Quad Lock mentioned that they are hoping to have a new version out later this year!

UPDATE

Next to the comments below, I received additional feedback of a charging head user on the power box issue. It seems the “performance of the power box” mentioned on the Quad Lock site, refers to this piece in the box…

… used to connect the charging head directly to the battery. The power it provides is unstable apparently, leading to the phone sometimes charging and sometimes not, in an unpredictable (thus unreliable) manner. Quad Lock gave this specific customer a 50 EUR refund, which was enough to replace the Quad Lock power box with a similar product that solved the issue.

Let’s hope they get this, and the vibration issue fixed soon! Will keep you posted.

UPDATE 2: Overheating issues with wireless charging head

Had some overheating issues with the wireless charging head in combination with Mexican sun and running energy intensive navigation apps. Because of that I’m going to remove the wireless charging head and move back to a normal cable charger. Here in my forum post in the “Big Phone Mounting Topic” where you can find the details on that.

UPDATE 3 – Vibration Dampener Works

Development of the vibration dampener is ready. QuadLock has sent me one, which I tested. Spoiler: it works!

A while ago I reviewed a leather Viking jacket in the Scorching heat of Merida, Mexico. This time I have the pleasure of trying the Viking Large Black Street/Sportbike Tail Bag.

At first sight a sturdy, decent looking tail bag with simple clean lines that will probably last for a long time. I like that it has no extra pockets or zippers on the outside. Because of the rigid side walls, it will keep its shape and protect your valuables well.

I thought I ordered a large tail bag big enough for my 17 inch laptop but unfortunately that was too much to expect. My bad for not checking properly. It does have the right size for a 14 inch for sure though. When you extend the tail bag, an extra helmet also fits in which is convenient when picking up that special person to go for a ride.

The tail bag seems pretty water resistant, but for heavier downpours Viking Bags included a rain cover which seems to be of decent quality too. The bag can be extended from 16 liters to 22 liters, this is effortless. It has reflective striping for visibility which not all tail bags have and on the inside, it has a webbed area to keep your small items tucked away.

At first the mounting straps seemed like a bit of a challenge, but after watching the instructional video it became easier to mount. The straps don’t feel like top notch quality, but I guess Viking Bags had to save on something to be able to offer the tail bag at this price. Viking tried to make them multipurpose so that you can make the tail bag into a back pack using the same straps, but when I tried that it just took forever to adjust the straps and it just did not feel right. A quick glance in the mirror confirmed my feeling. Apart from this, imagine riding for a while, getting the straps all dirty and then having to put them around your shoulders.

The straps are the only downside I can think of, but as long as you use it as a cool briefcase rather than a backpack you will have no problem whatsoever.

In short

• Installation is easy, probably 5 minutes
• Material: Sturdy Cordura (Nylon)
• Rain cover: yes
• Well constructed
• No zip off base that can be stolen

Pros

• Affordable
• Well built
  

Cons

• Straps could be better

Conclusion

All in all, great value for money, I wonder where the drawback is, if there is any. This is the second product I tried from Viking and it just is a very good bag, especially for the price. 

Check their other luggage

• Motorcycle Tank Bags
• Motorcycle Tail Bags
• Motorcycle Sissy Bar Bags
  

Viking sent us a Viking Cycle Britannica Riding Leather Motorcycle Jacket and I had the pleasure of trying it.

I took the jacket for a ride in the scorching heat of Merida, Yucatan Mexico. Ducati Merida was kind enough to lend me a Ducati Diavel 1260 S and while riding I tried different movements which all worked out fine. Obviously using leather in really hot weather is not the best choice, but this jacket was fresh enough after taking the inner liner out. Under the armpits it has perforated leather panels that you really notice while riding. The Ducati Diavel accelerated and I felt instant freshness. 

Pockets

The jacket has 8 inner pockets of which 4 have zippers, two side pockets with zippers and an armpocket for your change or toll ticket. One of the side pockets even has a handy little lock for your wallet so you don’t need to worry while riding with your pocket open.

Safety

What they say is true: dress for the crash; The Britannica has soft black leather with ventilation valves and the brown stripes as well as the brown shoulders are made of thicker leather. Although not tested I think the leather is thick enough for a bit of a slide on the asphalt in case of a crash. The jacket has CE approved back, shoulder and elbow protection which, while thin, feels sturdy.

Water Resistance

With tropical showers being very common here in Mexico I had to test its water resistance and it passed like a charm. It took ages before just a little bit of water came in through the zipper on the front.

Fit

I wore the XL which fit me like a glove. Although a tight fit, it allowed me to move my arms freely, and because of the long sleeves I didn’t have to worry about my wrists being uncovered.

Price

At $159 this is a lot of bang for your buck.

Overall

Pros:

• Nice soft leather, good fit for big guys.
• Very cool look, low profile so good to take to work or to a bar.
• Loads of pockets
• Excellent price/quality ratio
• Easy to remove inner liner
• Protection can easily be removed or changed.

Cons:

• Can be too warm in hot weather
• It has no reflective material so visibility is low
• Single stitches

All in all a very good looking leather jacket that I will wear to work as well as on motorcycle trips. What every motorcycle jacket should be about is safety and Viking managed to combine safety with good looks.

Where to get one

Viking has three stores where you can order, depending on where you are located:

For US: https://www.vikingcycle.com/

For UK: https://uk.vikingcycle.com/

For AU: https://au.vikingcycle.com/

If you’re a person that only likes to hear the sound of your engine and exhaust, I understand! No distractions, clearing your head and letting the raw noises hypnotise you into a Zen like state while smoothly cutting through corners. Better then meditation! HOWEVER, if you’re more of a social rider wanting to talk to buddies in the group, or simply would like some musical distraction during the boring highway parts, I understand you too. This article is for you!

Right of the bat you need to make some choices. Choices that hugely impact the kind of products you should be looking for and the budget you should have ready. Talking about budget,  let me start with price… for the range you see in the below graph you should think around $50 to $500 dollar.

So, let’s talk about this graph. All the way at the top you see the first and most important decision you need to make. Are you looking for just sound (from you GPS app and/or your music app)? Or do you also want to communicate with someone else (your passenger and/or other riders in your group)?

Sound Only

If you only need sound you’re in luck from a budget perspective. You just need some earbuds or helmet speakers. Now, don’t be mistaken, there’s still a huge range of products to choose from in each category, but still, you’ve eliminated all the full-duplex com systems.

Helmet Speakers

Let’s start with the Helmet Speakers. There are simply too many out there to discuss them all. I suggest to find a respectable brand and then look for online reviews about them. Also check if they fit your helmet. One tip I’d like to give you… go for a bluetooth version. I’ve used a cabled version in the past, but not for very long. Why? Because the speakers were installed in my helmet and wired to my iPhone which was mounted to the handlebars. When I got of my motorcycle and tried to walk away with my helmet still on, I got ‘reminded’ that I was still connected. This is not such a big deal if you keep your phone in your pocket of course.

Earbuds

The wired vs bluetooth argument is the same for earbuds, so won’t repeat myself on that. Other then that, make sure you get earbuds that don’t fall out and don’t irritate you after a while. The pressure of the helmet on your ears might amplify any discomfort you feel without helmet. Earbuds will also help you protect your hearing against wind buffeting and other noises from wind and engines. There are also third party ‘noise cancelling’ buds (so, the foamy part) for sale that help protect your hearing even more. They are made of memory foam so will adapt their shape to your ears as well.

The below video, by FortNine, shows you some options for earbuds, 3rd party ‘noise cancelling’ buds and helmet speakers.

Sound and Communication – Motorcycle Com Systems

If you want to talk to your passenger or someone in your group then you’ll have to spend a minimum of about $100 dollars. In the graph I’ve divided the Helmet Com Systems in 2 categories: low/mid end and the high end ones. In reality this is more of a grey area. While there are a lot of brands and ‘white label’ products for sale in this arena (just search Amazon), I recommend to get one from a respectable brand like Cardo or Sena. Not only does that ensure good support, but also you’ll have a lot more chance of finding riders with the same system. So, chances to find someone to talk to is bigger. I won’t go into detail on each and every set out there. In stead I’ll talk about some of the most important features and differences between the low/mid end and the high end systems.

Range

Range is the maximum distance the ‘other person’ you want to talk to can be away from you and still have the com system work. Typically, the higher end the model, the farther the range. Ranges typically vary from 200 meters to 2 kilometers more or less.

# connections to other sets

Basically, the lower end models can only connect to 1 or 2 other riders, while the highest end models use a ‘Mesh’ network, enabling connections to many riders at the same time. You’ll be able to talk and listen to 8 or even more people at the same time.

# bluetooth channels

The cheaper sets might only have the ability to connect one other bluetooth device (like your phone as a music player), while most mid and high end models will connect two or more bluetooth devices. This is important because your phone usually already takes 2 channels (one for music playback over the A2DP protocol and one for handsfree phone calls over the HFP protocol ) and maybe you want to connect a 3rd device too, like a stand-alone GPS Unit like a Garmin Zumo or TomTom rider.

Other differences

Although the above 3 are the most important differentiators between the low/mid and high end models, there is more to consider. For example the very low end models might not have noise cancellation (pretty important if you want to have a conversation under your helmet, while going 60 mph). Also the control buttons and such can vary a lot between models. Some have a ‘remote control’ which you attach to the handle bars, while others have the control on the unit itself. Pay special attention to how easy (or difficult) it is to control with gloves on.

Once again I’d like to refer you to a FortNine video. His reviews are very detailed and give a good overview (I have no affiliation with FortNine). The below video is a review of some of the most well known Motorcycle Com Systems out there:

One more thing I’d like to add to this. Be aware of ‘drag’. I personally am not a fan of units you attach to the outside of your helmet. I have mostly ridden naked bikes and bikes with small wind screens, therefore the wind against such a unit can cause a drag, especially at higher speeds, causing unwanted noise and even neck pane on longer stretches.

Finally I’d like to mention that more and more helmet manufacturers are starting to offer integrated systems that you buy together with the helmet. These systems are specifically built for your helmet and are very often based on the highest end model of a well known brand. For example, Schuberth offers it’s SRC system, with is actually a Cardo com ‘under the hood’. While these integrated units take you to the very highest price range, in my opinion they are worth the money if you can spend it.

Your phone’s screen can not be operated with standard (motorcycle) gloves. This is because it operates through the change in electrical current that occurs when your skin (a finger tip) touches the screen. Materials that cannot conduct electricity, like used in motorcycle gloves, prevent the transmission of electricity to the screen.

I’ve written about this topic before in this article, but since then some new solutions have entered the market and I wanted to give you an overview of all the possibilities that are out there at the moment.

1. DIY – Sow conductive wire in your gloves

It’s possible to “convert” your current gloves to enable touch operation of your phone. This requires a bit of conductive wire and some rough sowing techniques. For more information on this see this site. I have actually done this myself with my summer gloves and winter gloves. I did the index finger and thumb on my left hand and only the index finger of my right hand. I’m quite happy with it. Especially for my summer gloves it wasn’t a problem. The winter gloves were much more difficult as it’s a thick layer you have to go through. I do feel some moisture coming through now when it’s raining, but, to me, that’s worth it.

2. Put liquid on your glove fingertips

There are liquids for sale that, when applied to your glove finger tips, will cause a change in electrical current on the screen, and thus, will theoretically work. I’ve had some feedback on this from users. It does actually work, but due to weather and wear and tear the liquid wears of pretty fast. Only a few rides and you’ll have to re-apply. AnyGlove and NanoTips are examples of manufacturers of these liquids.

3. A glove for your glove’s fingertips

The most famous manufacturer of these is ThumbDogs. The concept is very simple and is exactly as the picture suggest. A glove for your fingertip. User feedback on these has also not been massively positive. Apparently they tend to fall off as they are not tight enough. This of course, depends a lot on your own gloves and may vary from person to person.

4. Touchscreen enabled gloves

This, is very likely the best, but also the most expensive solution. Lately more and more manufacturers are bringing out touchscreen enabled riding gloves. They are not cheap, but will do the job best of all of these option. Prices vary a lot, but if you want one from a respectable motorcycle brand you’ll pay the price for it. Here’s a list of touchscreen enabled motorcycle gloves for sale on ebay.

CONCLUSION

Solution 2 and 3 are not for me. I want this to work always and everywhere and not, when I need it, discover that the paint wore off or that I lost a thumb dog. So, if you already have gloves consider solution 1. If you still need to buy gloves than definitely buy the touchscreen enabled gloves. Their price compared to regular gloves is not that much higher and worth the extra money.